If you're standing in your backyard looking at a roll of metal mesh and wondering, do you weave tension wire on chain link fence or just clip it along the bottom, you've hit on one of the most debated topics in DIY fencing. It's one of those projects that looks simple until you're actually holding the pliers and trying to figure out how to stop the neighbor's dog from squeezing under the bottom rail.
To be honest, the term "weaving" is a bit of a loose description for what actually happens during installation. Depending on who you ask—your local hardware store guy or a professional fence contractor—you're going to get a couple of different answers. Let's break down how this actually works in the real world so you don't end up with a sagging mess after the first big windstorm.
The short answer to the weaving question
Technically, you don't usually "weave" the tension wire through the diamonds of the chain link fabric in the way you'd weave a basket. If you tried to thread 100 feet of 7-gauge wire in and out of every single link, you'd probably lose your mind by the tenth foot. It's incredibly time-consuming and, frankly, overkill for most residential jobs.
What most people are actually asking is how to secure that wire so it stays put. In the vast majority of cases, you'll run the tension wire straight across the bottom of the fence and then attach it to the mesh using hog rings. However, some old-school installers do prefer a "lazy weave," where they pass the wire through the mesh every few feet just to keep it aligned before they come back and tighten everything down. Both ways work, but one is definitely going to save you a lot of blisters.
Why bother with tension wire at all?
You might be tempted to skip the tension wire altogether, especially if you've already got top rails and sturdy posts in the ground. But here's the deal: chain link is flexible. Without a tension wire at the bottom, the "fabric" (that's the mesh part) is basically just hanging there.
If you have a dog that likes to dig or even just push against things, they'll find out pretty quickly that the bottom of a chain link fence is the weak point. They can lift it up with their nose and scoot right under. Tension wire acts as a sort of invisible curb. Once it's stretched tight and clipped to the mesh, it provides the structural integrity needed to keep the bottom of the fence from bowing out or being lifted. It also keeps the fence looking sharp and straight instead of getting that "scalloped" look over time.
Weaving vs. clipping: which is better?
If you're a glutton for punishment and you decide you really want to weave the wire through the mesh, you'll end up with a very secure fence. It essentially integrates the wire into the fabric itself. The downside? If you ever need to repair a section of the fence—say a tree limb falls on it—you're going to have a nightmare of a time unthreading that wire to replace the damaged mesh.
On the flip side, clipping the wire with hog rings is the industry standard. You run the wire along the bottom, get it tight with a stretcher or a come-along, and then pop a metal ring every 12 to 24 inches. It's fast, it's strong, and it's much easier to maintain. If you're doing this yourself, I highly recommend the clipping method. Your hands will thank you.
How to get the tension wire installed right
Setting up the wire isn't just about dragging it from one end to the other. There's a bit of a process to make sure it actually does its job.
- Attach to the terminal post: You start by wrapping the wire around your end post (the terminal post) and securing it with a tension band and a bolt. Some people just wrap it and twist it, but using the proper hardware keeps it from slipping.
- Run the line: Pull the wire all the way to the next terminal post or corner post. Don't worry about the line posts (the skinnier ones in the middle) just yet.
- Stretch it tight: This is the most important part. You can't just pull it by hand. You'll need a fence stretcher or at least a high-quality come-along. You want that wire to be "guitar string" tight. If there's any slack, the wire is basically just decoration.
- Secure the other end: Once it's taut, wrap it around the far terminal post and secure it.
- The "Weave" or Clip: Now you go back along the length of the fence. This is where you decide if you're going to weave it through a diamond every few feet or just start clipping. Most pros will pull the wire up so it sits about two inches above the ground and then start snapping those hog rings on.
The tools that make the job easier
If you're going to do this, don't try to "MacGyver" it with a pair of standard pliers. You'll just get frustrated. There are a few specific things that make a world of difference:
- Hog Ring Pliers: These are specially designed to hold the C-shaped rings and squeeze them into a circle around the wire and the fence mesh.
- Tension Wire (7 or 9 gauge): Go with the 7-gauge if you have big dogs or live in an area with high winds. It's thicker and harder to bend.
- A Come-Along: This is a small winch that helps you put hundreds of pounds of tension on the wire without breaking your back.
- Wire Cutters: Heavy-duty ones. Tension wire is significantly tougher than the mesh itself.
Common traps to avoid
One of the biggest mistakes I see people make is putting the tension wire too high. If the wire is six inches off the ground, a small dog can still get under it. You want it low—usually about one to two inches from the bottom of the fabric.
Another mistake is forgetting to account for the grade of your yard. If your yard slopes, you have to follow that slope with the wire. Don't just pull a straight horizontal line if your ground drops away, or you'll end up with a massive gap at one end. You want the wire to stay parallel to the bottom of the chain link mesh at all times.
Lastly, don't over-tighten to the point of bending your terminal posts. I've seen people get a bit over-excited with the come-along and actually pull their end posts inward. If your posts aren't set in deep concrete, they will move. Make sure your footings are solid before you start cranking on that wire.
Keeping your fence tight for years
Once you've finished the job, you shouldn't have to mess with it much. However, metal does expand and contract with the seasons. If you live somewhere with freezing winters and boiling summers, you might notice the wire get a little slack after a few years.
If you used hog rings, it's a five-minute fix. You can just add a few more rings or use a pair of pliers to crimp the existing ones a bit tighter. If you wove the wire through the mesh, it's a bit harder to adjust, which is another reason why I'm a fan of the clipping method.
So, do you weave tension wire on chain link fence? Only if you really want to and have the patience of a saint. For everyone else, keep it straight, keep it tight, and use those hog rings. It'll look professional, stay secure, and keep your critters exactly where they're supposed to be.